Apple Butter (and 5 Variations)
Good apple butter is something you make when you’re not in a rush. My preferred method rewards patience. It starts on the stovetop then transfers to the oven allowing flavors to concentrate, bringing forward deep apple and toasted caramel notes. I add a finishing dollop of miso for added complexity and magic.
Apple butter is the deeply concentrated, intensely flavored cousin of apple sauce. It’s slow-cooked and spreadable. Just know, it’s hard to go back to sad commercial applesauce after you’ve tasted homemade apple butter. It’s the kind of thing I tend to make when there is a surplus of apples around. You need a lazy day, even better if it’s stormy, because you’re going to let your apples simmer on a burner for a stretch, then they'll cook and concentrate in the oven for another hour or two. Your efforts will be rewarded with a quart (or so) of incredible apple intensity.
Apple Butter: How To Use It
Apple butter is the sort of thing to enjoy straight, dolloped on oatmeal, or swirled into a yogurt bowl. It’s amazing on crepes, waffles, and pancakes as well. But, I really like to use it as a filling for golden, flaky apple cinnamon hand pies (will link soon!), and always set aside enough for that task.
The Technique
The way I make apple butter is more old-school (and time intensive) than stovetop-only versions. Similar to this mushroom ragù, by starting the process on a stovetop and then moving the apples to the oven after blending them. Your end result is much richer, complex, and concentrated. It’s worth the extra time, and your house will never smell better, I promise.
What Kind of Apples?
Honestly, I nearly always end up using mix of apple varieties. That’s my advice. Whenever I use a mix of apples, the apple butter turns out better. Better flavor with more dimension. Definitely get some sweet apples in there. When you do, I often find it unnecessary to add sugar to my apple butter, it's plenty sweet and nicely balanced. That said, if you're tasting along the way, and your apples aren't developing the level of sweetness you're after, stir in brown sugar, a couple of tablespoons at a time, until it is to your liking - 1/4 cup is usually the sweet spot.
Peeled or Un-peeled Apples?
This is a matter of personal preference. I tend to leave the peels on for the nutritional benefits and rustic spirit. That said, if you love a silky smooth, more refined apple butter, start with peeled apples. Then run the blended apples through a food mill.
Apple Butter: Variations
- Smoked Cinnamon Apple Butter: I love using smoked cinnamon in my apple butter. You use it in place of more common Royal or Vietnamese cinnamon. It’s quite strong, so start with 1 teaspoon, and then wait to add more at the very end if you want a more pronounced flavor. I’ve been using the smoked cinnamon from La Boîte.
- Apple Cider Apple Butter: Use apple cider in place of the water called for in the recipe for more concentrated apple flavor.
- Pear & Apple Butter: Do a mix of apples and pears following the same process. You might even add peeled quince as well.
- Pink Apple Butter: Add a cup of cranberries (frozen is fine) to the apples before simmering.
What Else Can I do with Apple Butter?
- Swirl it into gelato.
- Make it a component on a cheese plate
- It’s a great sandwich spread if you’re going for savory/sweet.
- Fold into whipped cream cheese as a bagel topping.
- Make a savory winter squash tart, and dollop some apple butter before baking.
More Apple Recipes
- Broccoli Apple Salad
- Shaker Apple Pie
- Apple Salad
- Apple Cinnamon Hand Pies
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Apple Butter
Apple butter is typically on the smooth side, but if you like a bit of texture, hold back a third of the cooked apples (chop them or cut them with culinary scissors), puree the rest before recombining. You can swap a couple teaspoons of vanilla bean paste in for the vanilla bean, if that is what you keep on hand.
- 8 apples
- 2 cups water
- 1/4 teaspoon fine grain sea salt, or to taste
- 3 tablespoons freshly squeeze lemon juice
- 1 vanilla bean, cut into thirds
- 2 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1/4 cup brown sugar (optional) or to taste
- 2 tablespoons white miso
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Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in the middle. Cut apples into eights and cut out core and seeds.
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Combine the apples, water, salt, lemon, vanilla, and cinnamon in a wide, ovenproof pan. Cook, covered, over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the apples are soft and collapsing, 30-40 minutes.
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Carefully transfer the apples to a food processor, in batches if necessary, and pulse until smooth. Transfer the puree back to the pan, stir, and then place in the oven. Bake, stirring regularly, every 15 minutes or so, until the apple butter is thick and concentrated - another hour or two. I typically taste for sweetness before placing in the oven and add the brown sugar if needed. The apple butter you see pictured here was in the oven for about 90 minutes, but you might go longer if you want it thicker and even more concentrated. Your spoon should leave a trail across the bottom when it’s done. Allow it to cool a bit and then stir in the miso. Taste and adjust with more salt or lemon juice if needed.
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Refrigerate for up to two weeks or freeze for up to six months.
Makes about 4 1/2 cups.
Related Recipes
Shaker Apple Pie
The defining detail of this traditional Shaker apple pie is the use of rose water in the filling. Sliced apples, brown sugar, and a splash of floral results in a special combination. Pair it with an all-butter crust and you have a beautiful apple pie on your hands.
Apple Salad
The sort of hearty apple salad I love. It has heirloom apples, shaved celery, and toasted nuts of your choosing. The dressing is creamy and spiked with rosemary, garlic and champagne vinegar.
Broccoli Apple Salad
A dreamy broccoli apple salad made from all-star ingredients. Bright broccoli florets, crisp apples, crunchy fried shallots, candied nuts and slivered red onions are tossed in a honey-kissed, creamy, almond dressing.
