Pumpkin and Rice Soup
Silky textured and vibrant, the pumpkin soup I made as soon after 40 hours of travel back from India. It has a herby rosemary butter drizzle and lemon ginger pulp, and completely hits the spot.
The provisions were scarce when we got back from India the other night - my first winter squash of the year still on the counter, brown rice in the freezer, a bit of sad looking ginger on the windowsill, random nuts and seeds in the cupboard, herbs still going strong in the planter boxes out back, and a three week old knob of butter. That was pretty much it. But I felt exhausted after getting off the plane, and after forty hours of travel from door to door, I was determined cook at home. This simple soup was the first thing I made. It was silky textured, vibrant in color, and after a quick trip to the corner store in the morning for a bit of yogurt and a lemon - the lunchtime leftovers were even better. Particularly because of a finishing touch of a rosemary herby butter drizzle and lemon ginger pulp. I hope you find it as restorative as I did. Also! I wanted to tack some photos of one of my favorite experiences from India onto this post - the day Wayne and I had our photos taken on the street in Jaipur.
I'd read about this man, Tikam Chand. He has been taking pictures in the Old City of Jaipur using his grandfather's camera for decades. And, upon arriving in Jaipur, we set out to find him. No luck, at first. But a couple of days passed, and finally, at a moment we weren't looking, Wayne spotted a guy with an old camera on the sidewalk. We pulled over, hopped out, and it wasn't ten seconds before we were in front of the camera. Sixty seconds and five frames had been snapped. Sit here, look here, you two together, and so forth. I was thinking it was very much like getting a dental x-ray. Much more fun, but still - all business. And it wasn't Tikam with the camera, it was Surrender. I'm still not entirely clear on whether the two photographers share the camera, or if they're related.
So, you have your picture taken, and that's when things start getting incredible. The processing is done right there on the street, and is finished in just a few minutes. A box in the back of the camera functions as the darkroom, negatives made from small sheets of hand-torn photo paper are slapped on a piece of wood, and shot again to make the positives. There's a bucket for rinsing. Your completed pictures (and negatives if you splurge for them) are unceremoniously wrapped in a zig-zag folded sheet of the daily newspaper. It all goes down fast, and somewhat hilariously. For those of you who are interested in the specifics of how this works, I found this (Jonas also has some amazing Jaipur photos).
The head-to-toe shot of us up above might be my favorite shot ever of the two of us together.
An out of focus shot of the camera from the front. All eyes on Krishna. There's no shutter, so to expose the frame, the red foil lens cap is moved to the side for a second or so. Part of what I loved about the whole experience was how unfussy, and non-technical it was. This guy had a good lens on a box set on a tripod that looked like a few sticks of driftwood bound together. And his photos are beautiful in a way you'll never get with a new camera. Completely inspiring.
Anyway! I have much more to share with you, in the meantime enjoy the soup. Trick it out with the good toppings (don't skimp on the pumpkin seeds), and I'm almost positive it'll become a staple for you this fall/winter - or, at least, I hope so. xo -h
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Pumpkin and Rice Soup
For this soup I started with a 2 kg / 4 1/2 pound squash, and used about half of it.
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- 1 large shallot, chopped
- 1/2 serrano chile, seeds and all, chopped
- fine grain sea salt
- 1 1/2 pounds pumpkin/squash flesh, seeded, peeled, and cut into 3/4-inch chunks
- 1 teaspoon fresh ginger juice, pressed from grated ginger
- cooked brown rice, warm
- toasted pumpkin seeds
- other toppings: plain yogurt, toasted pepitas, lemon ginger rosemary butter* (and pulp)
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In a large soup pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion, shallot, and serrano and a couple big pinches of salt. Cook until softened, about 5 minutes, then add the pumpkin and 6 cups of water (or less if you like a thicker soup), I make this one on the slightly thin side.
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Bring just to a simmer and cook until squash is completely tender throughout, about 15 minutes. Note that the time it takes will differ between different squash/pumpkin varietals. Remove from heat and puree with a hand blender until smooth, and add the ginger juice. If you like an even thinner soup, add a bit more water at this point, then stir in more salt to taste, about 2 teaspoons.
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Serve over a big scoop of brown rice with lots of toasted pumpkin seeds (or pepitas), a dollop of yogurt, a drizzle of lemon ginger rosemary butter (and pulp).
Serves 4-6.
*Lemon Ginger Rosemary Butter: Melt 1/4 cup / 2 oz unsalted butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, long enough to let the butter start to brown a bit. Remove from heat and immediately stir in leaves from a 4-inch sprig of rosemary, zest of one lemon, I teaspoon grated ginger, and a good pinch of salt. Stir well and let sit for 5 minutes or so. Strain the butter, and reserve the pulp to serve separately.
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I made this last night and it was sooo amazing! It will stay in our cold weather rotation!
Hello! This looks perfect for autumn.
What kind of pumpkin or squash best lends itself to soup here? I have access to a wide variety but would love suggestions. Thanks!!
Oh Heidi! You’ve made me hungry and nostalgic all at the same time! Hungry for this soup (and I have your New Year Noodle Soup on my brain as well…can’t wait to make that again!) and nostalgic for the process of developing photos by hand. I can still smell the fixer from my days in the darkroom and any reminder (so rare these days!) that I get of that process just makes me smile.
The pumpkin soup and and lemon rosemary butter were fantastic. I can’t wait to make more of your recipes.
Heidi, I’m so delighted to read of this experience of yours. The entire thing is priceless — in awe! I traveled to India about three years ago, and from what I gather, traipsed a rather similar route to yours. It remains one of the most surreal highlights of my life thus far.
This soup was delicious! I made it with a package of pumpkin puree because I had one on hand and wanted to put a soup together quickly. It worked out well.
The lemon rosemary butter was full of flavour. I loved every spoonful!
I’m a fall fantatic (who isn’t these days?!), so I’m excited to test-drive this recipe 🙂
I was waiting for more cold weather to come to the South Bay(San Jose)before I made this, but the need for an easy supper tonight trumped all! I already had pumpkin puree in the freezer which made it quick. I made a few omnivore adjustments(used chicken broth and also served sliced pork tenderloin) but it was just the thing I’ve been wanting. Thanks to you, I discovered that my daughter(11) likes serrano peppers. I had chopped up the other half and put it on the table for my husband and I and next thing I know she has a piece in her mouth. Needless to say, she got a bit extra yogurt in her bowl.
Heidi,
I made this yesterday and it is perfect for this time of year. Eating the leftovers for lunch today.
I found a tip for pressing the ginger. I ran diced fresh ginger through my wheatgrass juicer and got two TB from a 2 oz pc in about 3 sec. It worked great. (it has to be a masticating juicer like a wheatgrass juicer to deal with the fibers though.)
This soup was FANTASTIC, thank you for a fresh, delicious recipe. Perfect for a cold autumn night. Loved the ginger and chile flavours.
Made this soup tonight with butternut squash – it was beautiful. The lemon, rosemary, ginger butter truly brings the soup to a new level!!
Your comment about your sad looking ginger caught my eye. Mine used to either dry out or go bad on me until I started storing it in the freezer. When you need ginger, you just grate it using a rasp grater. I don’t even take the skin off – the grate is so fine no one notices. Of course, if you need slices, you’ll probably want fresh, but I always keep some of it in the freezer. And if you wrap your celery in aluminum foil, it will be fresh for you even after a month away in India.
great post – love the photos.
sounds delicious and very timely – wondered what to do with all that pumpkin!
This turned out quite good. A bit on the spicy side. However, the Lemon Ginger Rosemary Butter is spectacular. Used left over on pop-corns. Quite nice!
Just went on a pumpkin shopping spree! Thanks for new ideas on how to tackle them all!
Cheers,
Sara
I have always used canned pumpkin in my recipes, but this year I’m inspired to cook my pumpkin from scratch. Your recipe will be the first I try with my fresh pumpkin!
oh, heidi, bingo!
i’ve already commented, in anticipation, but had to follow up, as i’m sitting with a bowl of this soup, between myself and my keyboard. it is sublime, a complete slam-dunk, and i am so, so happy to have it in my life.
the pulp totally makes the soup. and takes guts to post, i’m telling you. thanks for that.
back to my soup…
Heidi – wow! lovely to hear about this photography process. the photos have such a cool quality to them. hope you had a great time in India and love to hear more about it. am off to India for winter and hope to bring back some nice stories and recipes of my own.
Best,
This looks delicious..I’m making it tonight!
This was perfectly restorative for a busy week. Made the soup as written–I loved the creamy texture and spicy flavor. I made a curry ginger brown butter instead of the lemon rosemary butter, and it worked beautifully with the flavors in the soup–like a really good pumpkin daal. Would like to try the lemon rosemary ginger butter next time as well!
I made your delicious soup last night and included all the accompaniments. They really take the humble pumpkin soup to another level. As I was cooking for a vegan instead of butter I used coconut oil. That was delicious too. Loved the India story and pics.
All I have at home are jalepenos. Do you think that level of spice will impact the subtle nature of the soup? Regardless, I will report back after eating it tonight.
HS: Hey Richard! I think you’ll be fine, but perhaps start with half and go from there.
Great story, great pictures, great food! What a combination! I like reading your inspiring stories.
I loved this!
I LOVE rice soups and it’s such a cute idea to add the seeds to the side as well. Definitely going to give this a go in the next week or two.
Soup looks great. I can’t believe that you had any energy left to cook something after all of that traveling. Pretty impressive.
This soup was such a delight. Thanks, Heidi!
The pumpkins soup is awesome. I managed to finish a batch before Sandy took the power out! Lucky here-no terrible damage. Leftover soup for work tonight-Yum
Heidi – Last night’s dinner was a perfect respite from the rain, thanks to your recipe. I added a tart apple and some chopped elephant garlic to the mix and roasted the veggies instead of sautéing. The toasted pepitas and ginger juice were an inspired touch! Thank you for the kitchen guidance.
Gorgeous, decadent and satisfying! Your recipes are always beautifully presented and always sound delicious!
welcome home !! sounds like it was a magical journey in india, looking forward to more stories & photos, but must thank you for what you’ve given us to start with…the photos taken of you & wayne are fantastic! what gems to treasure from this trip there, and the whole story behind the photos is amazing! so kewl, i just love that simplicity… now i’m off to make that soup!! 😉
Lovely photos! I will definitely have to check out those links to more info on those Indian guys that you shared.
On the pumpkin soup … I hope this isn’t a silly question, but how would you suggest that one press ginger juice from grated ginger?
Do you just grate the ginger, then really mash / press it with a heavy handle….? I’d love to know a good technique, as I *adore* ginger, and would love to extract the potent ginger juice more often for other cooking endeavors.Thanks for the enjoyable post!
HS: Hi Tamsyn. I peel a knob of it, grate it on a microplane, then gather the grated ginger into a ball and press it hard against the grater – the juice runs through the holes. You could also press it against a fine strainer, but I find that’s just one more thing to wash. Hope this helps!
I love the photographs! We’re going to India in February, and Jaipur is on our list, so I really hope we stumble across this guy. I’m so looking forward to reading more about your trip, it will give me inspiration and something to look forward to now the clocks have gone back and it’s cold, dark, and generally a bit miserable!
The photos from India are fabulous and the details about the vintage camera were a delight. Looking forward to more.
This sounds delicious and super light — I love it. And those photographs.
What an awesome experience! I’d love to stumble upon a photographer with a vintage camera set up like that in India. The darkroom straight on the street makes film photography seem so accesible.
Soup looks great too. I absolutely love creamy veggie soups like this in autumn and winter.
Heidi, I read your blog all the time and adore it, I hardly ever comment but this soup looks like just what I need after a miserable day and a lot of rain here in London.
What sort of squash did you use? I’ve got a really cute little butternut and a kabocha.
And would you recommend coconut or olive oil in place of the butter (in both parts of the recipe) for a vegan version?
I hope this can, literally, brighten up my evening tomorrow!
HS: Hi Hannah – either squash should work great (or a combination). And coconut or olive oil will work. I usually use coconut if I’m going to go with more of a curry/Thai flavor profile, olive oil if I’m leaning more Mediterranean.
Heidi I love when you use the words restorative to describe your food. This looks simple and wonderful.
Wow, those photos turned out so beautifully – I love the profiles of both you and Wayne. They’re so elegant! What an interesting character! I can’t wait to try out this soup, and to see more pictures from your wonderful travels. Thanks for sharing!
Gorgeous photos and what an epic journey to find the photographer! Travel is soooooo fantastic – our big world makes our problems seem smaller, doesn’t it?
Although this is my first time to comment on your blog, I have been LOVING every moment of it. Thank you so much for creating/posting in such a beautiful blog.
This soup will definitely be a winter staple for us!
Cheers !!
Lynne
This soup looks so delicious. Can’t wait to hear about your trip. Great photos!
I made the soup last night, along with ‘Deborah Madison’s’ Irish soda bread.
It was wonderful. Perfect for a snowy day here in Calgary! Thank you.
Posts on India from anyone who didn’t grow up there make me fully realize the meaning of the word wistful. You see things through a different lens, one I wish I had when I lived there.
I was in Jaipur in the late ’90s as a student. I love Rajasthan, Jaisalmer especially. For me, the architecture, fabrics and food blew me away. The food (mirchi vadas? Yes, please! Hot vegetable curries and stir-fries? Yay!) especially enthralled me. So similar but so different form what my mother cooked further down and south,
Waiting to see more of your photos.
It looks very delicious. Thanks a lot.
This is seriously amazing! I wish I knew about this guy, when I was in India last year. Incredible.
I made this using a white pumpkin. Even using less water than was originally called for, the soup was watery and had a chalky taste. I threw it out and made an old standby instead (Moosewood’s Hungarian Mushroom Soup). Perhaps my pumpkin choice was the problem. On the plus side, the Lemon Ginger Rosemary Butter was tasty, and the reserved pulp was a nice treat.
Welcome back Heidi! Can’t wait to see your photos and the new recipes you come up with from your trip. Hunkering down here in NYC for the storm and wish I’d bought squash at the farmers market saturday to make this–cooked your coconut red lentil soup last night instead which I think is my all time favorite! Your recipes and flavors have really inspired me and changed the way I cook. THANK YOU!
I love the camera story, and I can’t wait to try your version of pumpkin/squash soup. I love pretty much every kind of pumpkin soup I’ve tried, so I’m sure this one will be a winner, too.
I absolutely love the camera story! Can’t wait to hear more about it and about your trip. XO
Thanks for the soup inspiration. I can always count on you!
I was just at a party and sharing India experiences with someone who’d been there within the last 5 years, compared to our own travels that took place mid-80’s. I’m glad to see that it’s still as evocative as when we were there — the sights, smells and sounds, it all gets under your skin and leaves indelible memories. Looking forward to your sharing more from the trip!
The soup looks wonderful and so perfectly timed. Those photos are like stolen moments in time–almost like from another era. I had tears in my eyes looking at them. How weird is that? The rustic, unfussy process is amazing.
That’s a pretty amazing, first-night-back, pantry dinner! Looks delicious!
welcome home!
beautiful photos, amazing process. reminds me of making pinhole cameras in first year, so basic, but so very exciting.
I’m not sure how I stumbled on to your site but I signed on and have checked it periodically over the year. It wasn’t until today that I really had a good look at it and love it! My interest peaked when I read that you had been in India. My daughter and I were in India a year ago for a month. I loved Jaipur but hadn’t heard about the photographer on the street. What a wonderful thing. I too am interested in photography and came back with some amazing photographs of India. So, I hope you write about some of your experiences and places you visited. We took some cooking classes in both the north and south of India and came back with great recipes, a great appreciation for the Indian culture and foods and wonderful memories and photographs! What more could you want?? Please share some highlights!
What an amazing keepsake! Can’t wait to see more from your trip.
Sister of mine just went to the Larder to get books & meet Aran for me, she shared how much it reminded her of our time with you in Seattle! ( I’m the groupie remember) anyway, memories & pumpkin what more could I ask for!
Wish I could have been there as well!
The soup looks beautiful…and I’m sure it tastes delicious too…..and I love your vintage-ish shots….developing the photos right on the street! how cool is that! also can’t wait to read more about your trip to ‘India’! I’m sure your trip pictures would make me nostalgic!
Thank you SO MUCH for all the info about the street photography! Totally blew me away and the photos are really really special.
Lovely story and I love the parallels of resourcefulness in your recipe after a long trip!
My cousin and I backpacked around Rajasthan in 2003 and had such a terrific time. We’d read about a popular lassi shop in our lonely planet in jaipur and went in search of it. In the year since our edition of the lp came out, other lassiwallahs must have got wind of the mention and decided to put up shop right next to the original one! Being confronted with some 5 lassi shops, we ended up buying something at the 3 that looked the oldest. Dinner that evening was a 3 course lassi extravaganza – plain lassi followed by salty lassi with a sweet mango lassi finale! Perhaps it was the same with the camera guy?
Lovely photos. Beautiful story-telling. And I can’t wait to try the soup.
Wow, the photography is so cool! I am very inspired by this post.
Simple, quick, nourishing and delicious! I, too, have found that sometimes having limited ingredient options fosters a unique brand of creativity.
That lemon-ginger-rosemary butter is going on pancakes immediately (as soon as someone wakes up). If I re-chill it, think it would work for cookies, or does the melting mess up the chemistry?
Glad to have you back — can’t wait for more trip notes and recipes!
Hi, you probably already know this, but Martha Rose Schulman of NYTimes gave you a shout out and posted one of your recipes. So exciting to see my favorite recipe authors together on the internet!
I think I am now officially obsessed with Tikam Chand. I love that he processes the images right there on the street! What an incredible experience!
The photos are incredible, utterly amazing. I would treasure such lovely photos. And the recipe looks fab too.
I think I walked past you in Japantown this week, on Thursday? I was outside the book shop and so nearly said hi but suddenly got all girl-crushy shy! If it WAS you, that black cape is fantastic!
HS: It was! And thank you 🙂 I got the sweater at Bloomingdales….and they definitely still have them (I think I might need to buy a back up for when this one wears out!)….And next time you’ve got to say hello!
Soup sounds wonderful! I think I’d leave out the chile though — but lemon ginger rosemary butter is a fabulous idea … and can be used for other things as well.
Wow, so amazing. Was the “darkroom” at the back of the camera containing his “homemade fluid mixture”most likely developer & then he boldly fixed in the outdoors? I’m super curious about this process & would love to try to get my photo students to try such non-technical, hands-on processes in this hyper technical, digital age. Seriously inspiring & thank you for sharing! Oh & the gorgeous soup too!
HS: Yes! I know, incredibly inspiring. The other thing I didn’t mention is that he seemed to have some sort of light-safe gloves that he used to develop in the back of the camera…garden gloves of some sort?
Wow, so amazing. Was the “darkroom” at the back of the camera containing his “homemade fluid mixture”most likely developer & then he boldly fixed in the outdoors? I’m super curious about this process & would love to try to get my photo students to try such non-technical, hands-on processes in this hyper technical, digital age. Seriously inspiring & thank you for sharing! Oh & the gorgeous soup too!
HS: Yes! I know, incredibly inspiring. The other thing I didn’t mention is that he seemed to have some sort of light-safe gloves that he used to develop in the back of the camera…garden gloves of some sort?
Funny, not that Austin is as far as India, but my post tomorrow was born of the same “arrive home, cupboard is bare” scenario.
Isn’t India amazing, especially as a vegetarian? I loved that feeling of having the run of the entire menu at most restaurants, and not in any way being considered an oddball. I’ve only been for 2 weeks but am looking for any excuse to go back.
HS: I’m loving being back in my own kitchen. That said, the food on our trip was SO good and interesting. Especially in the country side – definitely enjoyed a long list of preparations I’d never even imagined. Hope you’re well Michael.
Oh Heidi, this sounds divine! It might be just the thing for me to whip up ahead of Hurricane Sandy’s arrival today. Thank you.
Your story about these photos in Jaipur takes me back to so many of my own quirky and beloved encounters abroad. Thank you for sharing.
I’ve been looking for new rice recipes, and this one seems pretty versatile. Also, those portrait photographs you got are beautiful! I love film photography.
I am so glad you are back safe and sound!!! Photos are amazing and i have just been given a veritable Ton of squashes so … here we go!! Thank you.
Beautiful, as always!
Welcome home! The photos are stunning and look like family heirlooms. I could dive into the soup…
What an incredible experience! We loved Jaipur – wish we knew of this at the time!
You’re back from India already, that was quick! Looking forward to more on your trip. Meanwhile, love the beautiful orange colour of the soup – and that butter sounds like a divine accompaniment.
Completely inspiring, like all your posts!
HS: Thanks Mary!
What a wonderfully composed piece. The integration of story and recipe is beautifully spun. Thank you. Time to make some soup!
Before having read your post, I also made squash soup…it’s windy and at the freezing mark here in Geneva, and so I roasted up an entire pumpkin, with serrano chilis, added some apples, ginger, cardamon and cumin and voila! I love the “bite” of the chili and the hint of sweetness from the apple. So happy to see you’re inspired after India.
While in Jaipur, did you get the opportunity to visit Brigitte Singh’s studio? She has resurrected old original wooden blocks and hand prints the most amazing fabric designs. They are very hard to get in the USA, but I have gotten them in Sydney (where I live part of the year) and London. Her work is exquisite. She is a french (by birth) designer and married to a northern Indian gentleman. You might be interested to look her up and see her work… absolutely fabulous.
HS: I didn’t, but I’ve already started a list for the next time I go back, and I’ll add this for sure!
The fact that a guy in the streets in India took what you consider the best shot of you two, is so amazing, it’s worth the trip to India.
Can’t wait to see the rest of the pictures as I’m a big fan of that country myself!
Yes, the soup looks delicious, and I will try it this or next week…..but the photographs! Such a delight and such a story behind them…..
There’s something about old cameras, black and white film…….
I remember my grandfather ahd lots ofnational geographic maagazines from the 1920s…there’s a one of you too that looks as if it’s come straight from the pages….
Lemon Ginger Rosemary Butter.
Oh, my.
Why is it always that our of scarcity, comes plenty?
Seems the theme of the photo and soup, alike.
Welcome home. We will be making this soup within the week.
HS: It’s good 🙂 Hope you like it Molly. xo
wow… this just looks and sounds amazing! can´t imagine how it works, picture taking and developing all in one.
i´m so excited to read more about you trip to india!
How brilliant! Those photos have such a vintage feel, to be treasured forever 🙂
I’ve been looking forward to your report back from India. I hope to one day travel to such amazing places for inspiration as you do, but for now I find my inspiration in what you share. Thanks
Also, thank you for your delicious recipes. I recently made your fresh pea soup for friends and it was received with the highest praise. Your flavor combinations are so simple yet clever and get me thinking.
HS: Thanks for the thoughtful comment Jane. And I’m so happy the soup worked out. Soup are hands-down my favorite.
Welcome home! It feels like you barely left! Wow…time flies!
The camera.shot.is.so.cool!! I love that! Totally inspiring is right!
And the soup sounds perfect – great job tossing together a soup with little in the way of post-trip provisions!
I love the story – and shots – of the photographer!
(And the soup looks good, too..)
Wow, what an amazing experience. I’m so glad you shared the process with us- very cool! I’ve got a simple pumpkin soup in the freezer, and will have to bookmark this recipe for when I thaw it for supper one night. Welcome back!
A nice orange soup for a nice orange city.
I miss the magic from developing film and photos in the darkroom. There was something so calming and methodical about it, a bygone era in this digital age. Soup looks great, too! I love how winter squashes store so well. 🙂
I can’t tell you how excited I’ve been, waiting to see your first post about India! Those photos are amazing, can’t wait to hear more… rest up xx
HS: Thanks Emma!
Those are such cool pictures! I love that antiqued look. Glad you had a good trip!
This soup looks fantastic, too. I bet a bit of cardamom would be fantastic in ti with that ginger. Add a little Indian flare. 🙂
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